Thursday, February 12, 2026

Troutworthy's Travel Blog: Lascaux (Art imitates art)

It was 11th September 1940. Exactly sixty-one years later, two planes would slam into the World Trade Center, and a third into the Pentagon, killing thousands and leading to the deaths of millions more. But on this day, a year before construction on the Pentagon began, although dark things were afoot in Vichy France, all was quiet in the Vézère Valley, where, outside the village of Montignac, eighteen-year-old Marcel Ravidat was walking his dog in the early autumn sun.


A year earlier, Ravidat had attempted to enlist with the French Army, but was turned away on account of his youth. If not for that accident of history, one of the greatest discoveries in the study of prehistory may never have been made at all. Pursuing a rabbit, Ravidat's dog Robot, a real organic dog named after the artificial organic workers in Karel Čapek's 1920 play R.U.R., was nosing around the base of an old, uprooted oak tree when it lost its footing, slipped and tumbled into a newly unearthed crevasse. Initially alarmed, Marcel Ravidat's concern turned to curiosity after he managed to retrieve Robot unharmed and in the process came to realize that the rabbit hole went very deep indeed.


Ravidat returned with three teenage friends and clambered down into the cave, which, they soon discovered, was filled with vibrant depictions of animals. In a manner reminiscent of the Famous Five, at first they had fantasized that they might have uncovered a legendary secret passage to Lascaux Manor, but they quickly came to realize that what they had on their hands was something altogether more ancient. They were put in touch with the priest and prehistorian Henri Breuil, who upon visiting the site on 21st September was able to establish that these artworks were thousands of years old. And that, in a nutshell, is the story of the discovery of the caves of Lascaux.


Except it isn't. The above story never happened. I lied to you.


The discovery of Lascaux didn't take place on the eleventh of September, but I liked the idea of juxtaposing this pastoral scene with 9/11. (Funnily enough, 11th September 1941 indeed seems to be the day ground was broken in the construction of the Pentagon.) I have no idea whether it was a sunny day, or whether the uprooted tree was an oak tree, though both things might have been true. The story of Ravidat trying and failing to join the Army is also one I made up wholesale. And these are just the aspects I intentionally misrepresented; I may well have got more wrong by accident.


Some of the stranger aspects of the story are true, as far as I can tell. The dog was indeed called Robot, although the English Wikipedia article mysteriously fails to mention this important fact. Why the dog was called Robot may have had something to do with Rossum and his Universal Robots, directly or indirectly, or it may not; I have no evidence of any direct connection. Breuil was indeed a priest, although by and large the era in which amateur antiquarian clergymen dominated the European intellectual scene was otherwise over by 1940.


Still other aspects of the story are untrue, but not made up by me. The idea that Robot fell into the cave is, according to Wikipedia, an embellishment made up by Ravidat himself. This is supported by the more extensive version of the story in Gregory Curtis's The Cave Painters (p88), which also makes no mention of the rabbit found in other accounts. Meanwhile, the actual date of the events described above is not clear: the Wikipedia page at least strongly implies that it was 12th September (not 11th), but this site says it was the 8th. But that site also says Ravidat was 17 at the time, whereas we know that his date of birth was 16th May 1922, in which case he must have been 18.


Misinformation also surrounds one of Ravidat's three human companions, Simon Coencas, a Jewish refugee who'd only moved to Montignac with his family in June of the same year. Less than a week after the meeting with Breuil, a German-led law enforced by the Vichy regime required all Jews to register, which they duly did, travelling to Paris for this purpose. In 1942 the whole family was arrested. This page writes of "Simon and his family, deported [plural agreement] to Auschwitz". But this page makes it clear that Simon and his sister, by virtue of their young age, were spared the fate of the rest of the family, who, like so many, did not survive Auschwitz. 


Simon Coencas died on 2nd February 2020. Just over six years later, on 11th February 2026, my early morning bus crosses the river Vézère, its waters a turbulent chocolate brown, well above the level of the riverside path. After an avocado toast in town (well, I already own a flat), I trudge out to the site of Lascaux IV. It's an ugly concrete building, better set up for coachloads than it is for the lone Brit in February who, it turns out, is the only person signed up for the English-language tour that morning. I think my guide is recovering from a cold. Following a spiel about the discovery of Lascaux – repeating the "dog fell in" trope – she produces a key and unlocks the cave itself.


It's easy to see how the teenagers, and even Abbé Breuil himself, would have been impressed. The entrance area, the Bull's Chamber, is a spacious dome full of enormous bulls in the three colours of Lascaux: black (manganese oxide), ochre and red (iron oxide). Beyond it is a corridor-like space whose ceiling is covered in horses. It's equally easy to see why Breuil called the cave the "Sistine Chapel of Prehistory". Outside her script, my guide isn't very talkative, but silent wonder suits me too. I stride on, almost alone in this legendary space, through areas named the Nave and the Apse, past an image of two bulls facing away from one another, partly overlapping, demonstrating that Cro-Magnons twenty thousand years ago had an understanding of the art of perspective.


This, too, dear reader, is a lie. Well, sort of. What I called "the cave itself" isn't the cave itself, in the context of Lascaux IV, but rather an impressively precise reconstruction. Sixteen pixels per millimetre, according to my guide. Other than a few black connecting corridors to better funnel the hordes of gawkers onwards, it is picture perfect. Not olfactorily perfect, though: my guide, who has visited the original, tells me that the smell of the true Lascaux cave is really quite disgusting. They could easily recreate it, she says, but no one particularly wanted to do so.


If my mendacity hasn't driven you away yet, thanks! And sorry. I've just become fascinated with replicas and replication of all kinds. In 2025, at about this time of year, I visited Warsaw, whose baroque castle is an elaborate 1970s reconstruction (by a Communist government, no less), and Vilnius, whose Palace of the Grand Dukes has even less claim to authenticity. History is clearly important to people! The original Lascaux cave had to be closed to the public in 1963, once it became clear that the collective exhalations of a million visitors had a deleterious effect on the object of their awe. Twenty years of tourism threatened to destroy what had lain undisturbed for twenty thousand.


And so, in Warsaw, in Vilnius, in Montignac, around the world, people throng to visit impressive fakes. Lascaux IV is the third replica; Lascaux II, the first replica, is still popular with older generations who visited it in their youth, and Lascaux III is a sort of peregrinatory Baba Yaga's hut of a cave, hopping around the world to bring the replica to the people. But perhaps "fake" is unfair: people seem happy enough, in many such cases, to accept the replica as the real thing. The Ship of Theseus, but if the whole ship had been blown to smithereens by a German U-Boot and a replica had been built in the Cold War period. 


With written histories, meanwhile, it's harder to tell real from replica. Perhaps this is because any history is a representation of the events it purports to narrate, rather than the events themselves: the map is not the territory. In this sense, history is replica by definition, and I've been writing recently, following Hayden White, about how it must take narrative form, which constrains it to share some of the properties of fiction. Seen this way, the replica-hood of history is virtually a trivial, necessary property. And yet clever people have felt the need, over and over again, to reassert the distinction: in linguistics, for instance, Ernst Pulgram's Real Proto-Indo-European versus Reconstructed Proto-Indo-European. This suggests that other clever people often fall into the trap of ignoring it, and of mistaking the replica for the original.


The cave painters of Lascaux must have been in a position to make the distinction, since they were capable of representation. The paintings of bulls in Lascaux are not bulls: ceci n'est pas un taureau. More generally, evidence of symbolic behaviour is everywhere in Lascaux, even if we don't know what the signified is in many cases: gate-like geometric structures, series of dots. In that sense, Lascaux IV is a replica of a replica, the main difference between the two processes being only that the second replication had a much higher degree of verisimilitude than the first.


(I find it interesting that this page refers to the four teenage discoverers as "inventeurs"; the related English word "inventors" is one we wouldn't use in this context, as it implies creation from scratch. But we can say something like "Edison discovered the electric lightbulb", as if he were out walking one day when his dog dug it up from under an uprooted tree in the Dordogne. Weird.)


Younger me was fiercely against intentionally deceiving anyone, ever, for any reason. So I'd get in trouble for saying things like (to my then girlfriend) "You're the second most beautiful person I've ever met". Older me thinks that, an age in which yet more clever people are being taken in by "AI", perhaps there's value in fakers like Alan Sokal and Jonas Bendiksen, as long as they reveal themselves – if only because their work reminds people of the difference between real and replica, and of the fact that the difference between types of replica largely boils down to creator intentions.

Wednesday, February 11, 2026

Troutworthy's Travel Blog: Platform 37

The rain doesn't so much lash at the window as slump resignedly against it before sliding hopelessly to the ground. Alongside the track I see an unbroken sequence of muddy fields, flooded copses, flooded fields, muddy copses. It's February, I'm in Burgundy, and the train is going at a snail's pace. Across from me, a slender, grey-haired, taut-looking Frenchman's hacking coughs provide continuous percussion.


This is, of course, the first day of my week of holiday in France. I'd been happy to rely on a clockwork eight-minute connection in Zurich, but for all my connections in France I'd left plenty of time. Except one: this regional train from Dijon to Nevers, which has to arrive on time in order for me to make a six-minute connection. It would have been faster and safer to go all the way from Zurich to Paris, and then out to Vierzon from there, but when booking I'd wanted to do something more adventurous. I'd challenged the spider's-web governing logic of French railways, where all routes lead to the Île-de-France, and for my temerity I have been punished. Outside the village of Cheilly-les-Maranges my train ground to a halt, and eventually, after what seemed like a eternity, with no communication from the train staff, it began to crawl along again. But this time so slowly that it feels like there's a man with a red flag walking in front of it.


Thus far off the beaten track, perhaps I've wandered into a pocket dimension of kismet and strange coincidences. An hour ago, this train passed through the town of Beaune. Just yesterday, following a tip from my father, I'd picked up a book by Karl-Markus Gauss called Im Wald der Metropole ("In the forest of metropolises"), and discovered that the first section of the first chapter took place in Beaune. When I saw that I'd be passing through the town, I'd decided to read the chapter. I was still reading it when the train came to a stop, and kept reading it while waiting for the train to pull itself up by its bootstraps. Occasionally I try to check my connections online, but it is futile: this part of France no more has the internet than it has a functioning rail system.


Gauss's chapter takes us from the grimace of a man he encountered in Beaune, to the grimace of a bust by the eighteenth-century sculptor Messerschmidt that now resides in Schloss Belvedere in Vienna (which, coincidentally, I also visited for the first time last month), to another bust by the same sculptor of a prince whose advisor was the African-born Angelo Soliman, to Soliman's daughter's husband's second wife's son Ernst Feuchtersleben, a pioneer of matters psychosomatic, and finally to a bar in Vienna where Messerschmidt had lived. A fine chain of digressions. 


There was something Kafkaesque about experiencing this meandering narrative while going nowhere, though. I should have sensed it as soon as I'd got off the train in Dijon, where there is a fine landscaped garden complete with natural history museum right next to the station. The platforms, though, are labelled A, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, 3, and 37, and my train via Beaune departed from the latter. It's three minutes' walk from the station building, and guests are advised to follow the blue line painted on the ground through this modern-day not-quite-labyrinth. In a station where platforms have letters, the best adventures start at platform 37.


My train eventually picked up speed again, and after stopping at Montchanin it seemed to have gained a new lease of life, albeit with a forty-minute delay. At this point I'd more or less given up hope of making it to my destination on the same night, since I was on track to miss not only my fecklessly optimistic six-minute connection but also the backup train too. But, wonder of wonders, the latter was also slightly delayed, and so I was able to leap across the platform at Nevers. The next and final train – an elegant intercity from Vierzon – was even later, pulling in to its last stop with over an hour's delay. It was after midnight, and by this point the afternoon's rain had regressed through the stages of grief from depression to anger: now it flung itself assertively in my face as I sprinted the last few metres to the Grand Hotel Terminus. After thirty uncertain seconds at the intercom, I was let inside.

Wednesday, December 31, 2025

Review of 2025

What did you do in 2025 that you'd never done before?

Turned 40. Visited Vilnius.


Vilnius cathedral in the evening.


Wrapped up an ERC project. Went on a Pride march. Applied for citizenship of a country.


Me having just handed in my application at the Landratsamt.


Did you keep your New Years' resolutions?

Didn't have any.


Do you have any resolutions for next year?

Maybe try to have a healthier lifestyle.


Did anyone close to you give birth?

Yes. Congrats to M. and C., who have a very chill baby girl.


Did anyone close to you die?

Sort of. In December, my parents' 19-year-old cat died a quiet death. Jazz had a near-perfectly peaceful, loved life and will be much missed.


The best gift.


What countries did you visit?

United Kingdom, Germany, France, Switzerland, Austria, Poland, Lithuania, Denmark, Netherlands, Spain. Doesn't seem like that many in comparison to 2022–4!


What would you like to have in 2026 that you lacked in 2025?

Inner peace.


What date(s) from 2025 will remain etched upon your memory, and why?

Nothing etched, this year, except my birthday. But lots of ups and downs.


What was your biggest achievement of the year?

A collective one: getting funding for our Collaborative Research Centre Silence, Noise and Signal in Language. This was a department-wide endeavour, and I am probably not quite in the top five people who put in the most work for it. But it was a substantial amount of work for me and everyone else anyway, and we're very glad to see it pay off!


What was your biggest failure?

Not getting funding for the second phase of SILPAC ("Structuring the input in language processing and change"), a research unit that spans multiple universities. That means that for us it'll end in 2025. We only heard in December, and it's a real blow, since our reviewer comments were almost exclusively positive, and the group was doing really innovative work.


Did you suffer illness or injury?

Not really. Quite a lot of headaches, though.


What was the best thing you bought?

The Bomb Busters board game is pretty good! Though I suppose I ought to say it was my expensive new Mac.


Whose behaviour merited celebration?

Molly Rolf, who defended her exciting, innovative PhD thesis on the diachronic nanosyntax of case.


Whose behaviour made you appalled and depressed?

Though I wouldn't go as far as "appalled and depressed", I was unimpressed by the antics of some of the EGG old guard.


Where did most of your money go?

My expensive new Mac.


What did you get really, really, really excited about?

Nothing much! But I had a really surprisingly lovely little holiday in the North Vosges.


View from the Grand Wintersberg.


I also got quite excited about series 5 of Stranger Things. In my research I started playing around with ideas about probabilities and language change, and in my teaching I set up a new course, Multilingualism in Medieval Britain, that has hopefully been as fun for my students as it has for me.


What songs will always remind you of 2025?

Comforting Sounds, by Mew. One of my favourite bands at their farewell concert series in Aarhus.


Mew on stage.


Compared to this time last year, are you:

Happier or sadder? Sadder.

Thinner or fatter? Fatter.

Richer or poorer? Richer.


What do you wish you'd done more of?

Walking.


What was the most embarrassing thing that happened to you in 2025?

Being asked for my autograph at a linguistics event.


Who did you meet for the first time?

I got to know our new lecturer in English linguistics, Nadine Bade, who's a great addition to the department both socially and academically.


What was your favourite TV programme?

I watched Bodyguard, Department Q, The Night Agent series 1 and 2, Downton Abbey series 1, and Der Pass series 1. All were entertaining, but not life-changing. Stranger Things series 5 (all but the finale, which isn't out yet) was pretty good, but more entertaining than all of these was Critical Role campaign 4.


What was your favourite film of this year?

I watched Charlie's Angels (2000), John Wick, Wallace & Gromit: Vengeance Most Fowl, Red Notice, The Tourist, Venom: Let There Be Carnage, The Lives of Others, and Men in Black 2. Of those, obviously the best is The Lives of Others, even though it's dull in places.


What was the best book you read in 2025?

In terms of impact and enjoyment over a short space of time, Mick Herron's Slow Horses.


What was the best game you played in 2025?

2025 was a year of replays. The only games I played for the first time were Assassin's Creed Shadows and Age of Wonders 4. AC: Shadows is well constructed and certainly a step up from its rather disappointing predecessor. Age of Wonders 4 is narratively disappointing, as all the AoW games since Shadow Magic have been. I also replayed Cyberpunk 2077 and its expansion Phantom Liberty, which probably takes the title of best game of 2025. Also replays of Dragon Age: Veilguard, Neverwinter Nights 2, and all of the NWN 2 expansions (Mysteries of Westgate, Storm of Zehir, Mask of the Betrayer).


What was your greatest musical discovery?

Blue Foundation.


How would you describe your personal fashion concept in 2025?

Brown fake leather jacket and T-shirt.


What kept you sane?

Olia and Sasha, the two Ukrainians I've been living with for the past three and a half years. They are a grounding influence on me.


What did you do on your birthday, and how old were you?

I was 40, and had a great time: escape room with D. and F., and then a nice afternoon at the St Katharina biergarten with a selection of good people from various phases of my life.


How did you spend Christmas?

Quietly at my parents' place.


What would have made your year immeasurably more satisfying?

Having more energy for reading and thinking.


What political issue stirred you the most?

The ongoing dismantling of higher education across the developed world, which seems to have taken a turn for the worse recently.


Who did you miss?

The usual.


Do you hate anyone now that you didn't hate this time last year?

No, I wouldn't go that far.


Was 2025 a good year for you?

Not really. It felt like a lot of work and stress for relatively little gain. But it wasn't a bad year either.


What was your favourite moment of the year?

Skirting the iced-over lake to visit the castle at Trakai?


Ice seen from the bridge.


Enjoying the company of excellent friends at St Katharina for my 40th?


Hiking up the Grand Wintersberg in August?


The slopes.


Hard to say.


What is a valuable life lesson you learned in 2025?

Don't overestimate your ability to predict the future.